SPG Certification

Professional Climbing Guide’s Institute ‘Single Pitch Guide’ Course

Objective: The Single-Pitch Guide Course (SPG) is designed for guiding and instructing within the climbing terrain of an area of thirty five meters or less.

Duration: 2 days

Price: $370.00 divided by up to three people to complete the course and $500 a day for the two day assessment and certification. *Note that the course and certification cannot be done by the same instructor or within the same session. Certification must be a minimum of one week after the course.

The Single-Pitch Guide Course (SPG) is designed for guiding and instructing within single-pitch lead climbing terrain. The SPG is perfect for climbing instructors working primarily in single-pitch terrain requiring lead climbing. This course is also perfect for competent Top Rope guides looking to expand their guiding abilities into Single-Pitch Terrain, college rock climbing program leaders, rock climbing club leaders, youth rock climbing program leaders, or recreational rock climbers wishing to improve safety and efficiency within the Single-Pitch terrain. The SPG focuses on Lead/Follow style guiding with up to two clients climbing single-pitch routes. The emphasis is on top-side managed techniques, belay techniques, efficiency, stance management, teaching and facilitation skills, single-pitch specific rescue techniques, advanced anchoring, belaying, lowering, and rappelling techniques, and also covered is the fine art of lead climbing with inexperienced clients belaying. This course provides students with the tools to successfully provide a safe and enjoyable experience for clients within the single-pitch terrain.

The primary goal of this training is to provide an open forum for learning and discussion in a supportive learning environment while presenting rigorous practical Single-Pitch guiding and instructing skill paradigms. The SPG consists of 3 days of technical hands on single-pitch rock climbing guide training. The training days are a combination of group discussions, analysis of systems, instructor demonstrations of common rock climbing guiding techniques, and extensive hands on learning and practice for students. Our professional guides provide extensive individual attention to students throughout this course.

*Prior experience at the top-rope level is strongly suggested before taking this course. Lead climbing up to 5.8 is strongly suggested as a prerequisite as well.

Prerequisites/Requirements:

All participants must be comfortable lead climbing traditional routes and capable of using traditional climbing gear (camming devices and stoppers) to build standard three-piece anchors. *Prior top-rope experience strongly suggested.

Participants must have a working knowledge of the following knots and hitches: Figure-eight follow through, figure-eight and overhand on a bight, bowline, double fisherman, clove hitch, and the münter hitch.

What you will gain in this course:

  • Within this advanced course students will learn to articulate an understanding of the SPG program, learn to describe the traits of a professional climbing instructor and embody these traits moving forward. 

  • As a group we will develop a comprehensive knowledge of equipment used when teaching and guiding single-pitch routes.

  • Students will gain proficiency in tying and understanding the application of the knots and hitches listed above and will become familiar with the uses of each and why one would be better than another in different circumstances.

  • Students will gain a thorough understanding of the most commonly used belay devices, and techniques to master these devices. Everyone attending will be able to exhibit the ability to teach belaying clearly, and concisely to a new climber.

  • Students will develop a comprehensive understanding of anchoring principles topside, and at the base of the cliff as well as risk management strategies for single pitch crags.

  • Students will gain a clear understanding of different learning styles and proficiencies for both instructing in a group setting (four or more) as well as coaching on an individual one on one basis.

  • Students will become familiar with the knowledge of selecting the best climbing site for a small group as well as for institutional climbing organizations.

  • Students will familiarize themselves with the various land management structures in Mexico and their varying permitting requirements needed to climb legally within.

  • Students will review (in depth) the ideas behind site organization and large group management. What will be ultimately achieved is full and complete proficiency with site organization and group management regarding both top of the cliff and bottom (base) situations.

  • Participants will also demonstrate an understanding of both the environmental and social issues/impacts involved with commercial guiding within a single-pitch setting. Leave No Trace will be understood and practiced. 

  • Students will form an understanding and rationale for working at the bottom of a single-pitch crag vs. topside while gaining proficiencies and the skills required to operate within these settings.

  • Students will learn and understand the rationale for choosing to operate from the top of a crag and display proficiency in the skills needed to execute these systems. Within this learning develop the skills to assist climbers from the top of the crag in a single-pitch setting as well as the proficiency of lowering clients understanding the use of appropriate system back-ups. 

  • Students will learn to set up and manage institutional rappels, employ appropriate back-ups and execute proper assistance and rescue techniques.

  • Students will learn the principles of body ergonomics and understand useful techniques when teaching individuals with differing body types how to achieve their personal successes with regards to climbing in a group setting and understand the differences of coaching individual clients versus groups.

  • Students will learn to perform a variety of “assistance skills” that may be required when working at the base of a single-pitch crag.

  • Students will develop a keen understanding of risk management, and the issues involved in single-pitch instruction. 

  • Students will observe the PCGI Mentor/Instructor lead a single-pitch climb demonstrating sound leading practices while taking in account considerations for client belaying. 

If you successfully complete the PCGI SPG Course you can then be tested in the 2-day SPG assessment to receive your actual PCGI SPG Certification. We offer the initial class four times a year and assessments in the Fall and Spring of each year.