Belaying a Leader; out of your Comfort Zone.

Climbing is much more than a person tying-in to a rope and climbing vertically. That is surely the task at hand (and foot so to speak).  But at the other end of the rope, as any 'climber' pushing their limits knows, is another. This "significant other" in the partnership is [always] the hero within the story. I write this knowingly for if there is a "story" to be told, chances are you are telling it because your belayer caught your fall, and kept you safe from catastrophe like it was their job, which it 100% is.

Peña de Bernal

 In the realm of the climber there is an old adage~ a good belayer will always have someone to climb with, but a bad belayer will never have anyone to climb with.  

This aphorism couldn't be any closer to the truth. Sooner or later everyone witnesses that bad belayer. This is the person while someone is on lead has their hand off the brake. Or a person you see so concerned with their phone that they aren't watching and have a huge belly of slack out lengthening the fall for their partner. Or worse yet, the belayer sitting on the ground while their partner is cruxing out with the gear below their feet, looking at a huge whip, while dip-shit down below is taking a siesta. These are the people that find themselves without partners, and for good reason. 

So, with that said it is easy to distinguish between a carelessly bad belayer versus an uncomfortable person paying attention giving an awkward belay. 

The New River Gorge

The number one reason a leader gets a sub-standard belay from a competent belayer is unfamiliarity with the friction devise. With that said; anyone reading this blog with belayer's anxiety (BTSD) know it can most likely be attributed to belaying your partner on-lead with a Gri-gri before understanding the standard practices of the device. This one little change from the familiarity of a stitch plate to a brake assist device will give a competent leader, and his stressed out belayer an equal case of IBS. 

Untold numbers of seasoned traditional climbers have the same apprehension when climbing at a sport crag where all is needed is a double set of dog-bones, and the indomitable will to hang on. For the traditionally traditional climber's belayer, the speed at which their partner pulls that rope and clips could put a cramp in anyones anal tract. The move from the ease of an ATC to the rope size fickle nature of a mechanical devise just sours the experience, and sometimes the on-sight. As it is sooooo easy to short-rope the leader at the worst possible moment that new born belayers to the seasoned vet resist the device. And this aversion promptly locates fine belayers outside of their comfort zone.

Fear not, as below (with credit going to Petzl) is an instructional video that will (with practice) help melt away any stress related to learning the proper technique of lead belaying with a Gri-gri.

 This video is mostly driven towards the safe procedure on how to keep the brake hand active, which plays directly into the mechanics of the device. This video is basically the manufacturers recommendation on how not to screw up, but doesn't delve into why the Gri-gri is so good. 

People frequently ask why the Gri-gri on lead belay is so far superior to all other non brake assist belay devices. 

The answer is simple. In life it all comes down to safety. Used properly the Gri-gri with the brake assist is a second line of defense incase of physical trauma where the belayer could be momentarily incapacitated. The gri-gri will simply add a second layer of protection preventing the leader's ground fall. 

Another reason the Gri-gri is extremely valuable is the devise helps assist the belayer while the leader ascends the line after a fall on severely overhanging territory. As the leader climbs/pulls the rope to move back toward their high point on the route, slack comes down and needs to be retrieved on the belayers end. Pulling that rope through as the climber ascends without a Gri-gri is extremely taxing, and dangerous. The rope pinch on the Gri-gri while yarding in slack allows for greater reduction in brake hand fatigue, while adding a level of protection with the brake assist. The piece of mind for the leader knowing their next attempt won't end up as a ground fall from their belayer being fatigued is a game changer. 

SouthernXposure Guides use the Gri-gri as a teaching tool.  Everyone who spends time with us become socialized with this wonderful device in every facet of its existence. Like a tool in the work chest where being better than proficient adds a level of competency that translates into security for everyone involved. Belay, single rope rappel, top-side management, as a back-up under an ascender, the Gri-gri performs. 

Developing at Ralph Stover State Park

The secret to moving from outside one's comfort zone to being cool as a cucumber is as simple as understanding the dynamics of the leader fall, and feeding ample rope while your climber is clipping into the protection. There are two inter related correlations to understand here. If you aren't falling, you aren't climbing hard enough. Secondly; if you're thinking about the falling, then you aren't thinking about the climbing. These two pit-falls walk hand in hand and dictate climber/belayer experience at the crag.  The fastest way to help your climbing partner overcome these obstacles is to be the best belayer at the cliffs, bar none.  

SouthernXposure teaches systems to keep climbers alive. Communication, and belaying properly are in an equal tie. The best way to be comfortable as a belayer on a Gri-gri is to practice with the device. Practice makes perfect. Ask your partner if they are clipping from underneath, or from the hip? Ask your partner to let you know when they are clipping. This way you know they are in a stance, are going to ask for rope, and two arm lengths can be advanced into the system.

With a leader feeding more rope is always better. Two large arm length slack pulls through the device is usually sufficient for even the lowest stance reaching the bolt hanger. Feed the slack, be generous, then pull in any extra cord once the rope is in its happy home. Any experienced climber who takes falls will gladly tell anyone listening, being short-roped is a far worse fate than having an extra two feet of slack and peeling off.  Realistically, the extra slack will not be noticed during a fall versus getting the 'uncomfortable belay' short-rope while cruxing out.

Being known as the best belayer at the cliff is an honor. Climbers know who they trust, and those who just don't get the ramifications of a bad belay.  Be attentive and understand your surroundings. Watch for the bad belayer, and talk to your climbing partners about what makes up a good belay. Focus on getting better all the time with the Gri-gri as it is your friend.

Exceptional Restaurants run by exceptional people.

Well it has been a great season climbing the "Triple Crown" in Mexico and the results of our restaurant survey has [finally] been tabulated. 

Each person that climbed with us gave us valuable insight on their favorite restaurant, and their "must have again" meals. The results, for now, were just kept to dinner as breakfast nooks are so plentiful (between the multitude of sit down eggs, bacon, and potatoes, to gourmet coffee, sided by fresh pastries, to the bike cart steaming fresh tamales “on the go”) it would be a huge task to narrow down the top five favorites for desayuno. 

The first place winner across the board, and "Crowned King" of Culinary Cuisine goes to El Rincon del Viejo in Aculco de Espinoza.

El Rincon del Viejo. 

 www.facebook.com/ElRinconDelViejoAculco/

Fernando, his brother Lalo, Sabrosa (the beautiful head waitress), and all involved, make this restaurant a “must visit” when crack climbing a La Cascada. The King meal for the comiendo carnivore is the Arrachera, hands down. Steak, caramelized onions with napal cactus and your choice of a side can not be beat.  The atmosphere this restaurant provides is exquisite, and the homemade Ice cream downstairs rounds out what could only be considered Heaven in your mouth. Come visit and experience Aculco, a truly Magic Town, meet Fernando, and enjoy a restaurant that you will not soon forget. 

Next stop on the Climber's Salvatory Satiation Situation is actually a tie! How can this be you ask?! Well, both of these restaurants are located in the same town, on the same street, and are right adjacent to one another! It is almost a painstaking decision to pick one from the other when trying to decide which restaurant, standing out front in the street.

Piave; Cucina Italiana is a slice of Italy nestled in Bernal.  Claudio is Italian born, and raised, who was educated in the United Kingdom, and immigrated to Mexico to settle down in a town with the perfect climate. Bernal is that town.

http://claudiobru1953.wixsite.com/restaurante-piave

The number one meal as voted by our regalia of rock rompers is Piave’s Lasagna with the bolognese sauce.  A meal that could only be made better by adding a glass of the house red, and a side of imported olives. 

Equally delicious, and right next door is Arrayán; Cocina Mexicana. 

https://www.facebook.com/pages/El-Arrayan-Comida-Mexicana-Bernal-Queretaro/132979426785929

Imagine this if you can; a four star Mexican restaurant owned by a German couple, who immigrated to Mexico, who fled San Miguel de Allende (because their friends partied too hard) ultimately to open a 'must visit' restaurant in Bernal.  Their trademark meal; a mole to die for….. Made every day from scratch; their secret blend of peppers with have you cleaning your plate with their homemade fresh bread. It would also be a crime not to mention their cream of tomato soup served with a fresh toasted crouton, and a dab of goat cheese. Simply, and utterly scrumptious. 

As an honorable mention it would be a huge disservice not to mention a few runners up that are also great restaurants onto themselves, and deserve recognition. 

As adventurous climbers tend to be, a mistaken word through translation changes a mixed cheese fondue to a sautéed cricket appetizer.  It could be said the grasshoppers tasted like chicken (as doesn’t everything when exploring the palate?) but they really tasted like a crunchy, spicy, popcorn that was better eaten like large M&M’s rather than rolling them up in a tortilla. 

One of numerous artisian brews available.  

Meson de La Roca; a fine establishment that serves food until late, and has the largest selection of local beers in Bernal.

Meson de la Roca

Gorditas La Peña is another great feed that fully explains how Bernal became world famous for their Gorditas. Fresh, made on the spot, and incredibly reasonable for the climber on a budget, or for the monster appetite that needs a pre-dinner appetizer (immediately) before heading to one of the restaurants mentioned above. 

Also worth a visit for anyone looking to broaden their horizons when in Bernal is Tacos “El Güero” specializing in the “Gringa”. 

They are located on the main road in Bernal proper and your tastebuds with not be disappointed. Victor, the owner honed in his talents working in the restaurant trade in Los Angeles. 

Victor, in his all glory!

He brought back his knowledge, and added a special mix of love, and local ingredients to whip together a taco worth stuffing yourself with. What a delight! 

Also lastly, two more restaurants so deserving of praise are both located in Jilotepec de Molina Enriquez. Once finished climbing the stellar walls of Las Peñas de Dexcaní returning to Jilo is welcomed as these two restaurants are side by side, completely different from one another, and both are delicious.  

The first; "Cocina El Portal”.

What a great place to grab a bowl of soup, and a plate of delicious food. Everything is made in a pressure cooker with love, and served with a complimentary pitcher of fresh squeezed juice. Cucumber, Mellon, Orange Papaya, or a multitude of other’s made fresh, these drinks are nothing short of delicious liquid vitamins to make your body say ahhhhh! 

Lastly, and not without special recognition is a restaurant that blows the minds of all visiting climbers as it is so out of the ordinary for Jilotepec, let alone México.  

The Crowned King of stuffing yourself for cheap (deliciously) is Ming-Fu Express.

This family left China to seek a better future for their family and immigrated to Jilotepec, Mexico. Szechuan food all made fresh, every day, at its finest. Imagine high end Chinese food in Mexico???!!!  Crazy, no? Three choices for $70 pesos ($3.50), or the buffet for $95!!! We as a company are thinking climbers are either going to make them, or break them with the buffet! While you are there practice your Español with their daughter Michelle. She is sooooooo cute, and has a thousand questions all in kid talk (the best way to get up to speed if your Spanish is rusty). 

Mark, the gentle giant killing their profits for the day. Climbing multiple hard 12's and 13's builds quite the appetite. 

SouthernXposure Guide Service fully supports all of these restaurants. They are all completely independently owned, and operated. These restaurants are the epitome of Mom & Pop fine dining. These restaurants are family businesses, NOT chain restaurants, and they all strive to keep you, the customer, happily fed. 

When we started SouthernXposure it was for so many reasons, but a few reasons are worth mentioning now. We still hold this values as vitally important  today, as we did so many climbing days past. 

Eco-tourism, and traveling is the spice that keeps life exciting. Climbers are the finest tourists to ever travel and visit a foreign town. We climb, we sleep, and WE EAT. 

Support local. Source your food locally. This idea was lost in the United States years ago with huge macro-restaurants eating up, and shutting down the Mom’s and Pop’s. Luckily the USA has seen a resurgence in recent years, and people are finally getting wise that fast cooked food is nothing more than fast.

In Mexico pride in the local culture is a way of life. Come climb with us. Visit the three climbing areas, and towns we call the triple crown. All three areas are as completely different as is the food you will be eating. Come to Mexico for an adventure of a lifetime. Whether you are on a fully guided adventure, or a seasoned climbers on your own booked through our Non-guided adventure; live the culture first hand.

Life is better lived with a clear view of the SouthernXposure.

Explorers

I believe we are all explorers at heart. When I was a child my friends and I would wander through the woods surrounding our houses endlessly in search of new discoveries.  Everything new was old, and everything old was new.  We would forage around anywhere, anytime looking for clues of the past trying to make sense of what we would find. This exploration is what sets us on a path of who we will eventually grow up to become. To me the wonders of the world all stem from the unknowns. Come and explore Aculco de Espinoza. Discover for yourself the past that is still alive today in the form of ancient Indian drawings, magnificent mountain peaks, or old world architecture that connects the past with the present. 

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Who? When? and Why?

Is this Otomi? The original Native American tribe that inhabited this area of México.  These natives founded the town of Aculco around 1110 AD, and were eventually pushed out by the Nahuas tribes, commonly known as the Mexicas, that eventually built the Aztec empire. 

The beautiful thing about exploring is that what you see, and find, while delving into the unknown is forever ingrained in your mind's eye. When you read that we as a guide service 'provide experiences that last a lifetime' believe it. Wandering around this beautiful reservoir on a rest day, leaving no stone unturned, is a perspicacity of an extraordinary culture that is gone but never forgotten. Explore these lands afoot while resting your tired muscles for another day's vertical gains. 

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La Presa del Tepozán is a truly magical place.

Serenity is; the state or quality of being serene, calm, or tranquil. We chose these climbing areas as they are as fantastic vertically as they are horizontally. Your experiences with us whether you are tied in, on-belay, are equally as important as when you are off-belay adventuring on your own.  

Walking through the fields surrounding this mass of water will bring you a peace and serenity which is becoming increasingly hard to find in this modern world. The beauty of a climbing trip with SouthernXposure is when your strength fades and a rest day is needed, the exploration continues. In Aculco de Espinoza it is easy to go from vertical to horizontal exploration. Just bring your lunch, a sense of adventure, and comfortable pair of shoes.

Let us take care of the rest. 

Simeon

How to bring the kids on a climbing trip.

Anyone who has ever spent any time at the cliffs knows climbing is a lifestyle more than a sport. Climbers prepare long in advance for any free days to be spent at their favorite climbing location searching out the perfect line.

So the question I am asked pretty frequently is how to evolve from the climbing duo to the entire family?

Well the answer isn’t always so straight forward as there are a lot of variables involved but let’s cover a few of the basics to get the thought process going for your next family outing.

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““Approaches should be somewhat short” ”

Picking the correct climbing area to visit is critical. One thing for sure… if the kids hate their first outdoor experience to the crag, chances are there won’t be a second.

Approaches should be somewhat short and try not to have it consist of a long uphill slog! Huge approaches with switchbacks on steep terrain is a buzz kill for anyone let alone a little kid who may or may not be thrilled with the idea of spending the entire day without the comforts of home.

My beta for anyone trying to get the chitlin’s involved is to play it smart. Take a day and head on out to the crag without any climbing gear. Just lunch, water and a game plan for fun. No climbing involved unless it is suuuuuper easy scrambling. Kids are naturally inquisitive and given the opportunity they will most likely find lots to do to entertain themselves. The name of the game here is to show them the approach at their leisure, let them get an idea for the layout of the area, and see if they even consider other people climbing around them. *As an added note. Having a ringer at the crag before you get there is a great way to get the day started. By ringer I mean someone the kids know and like. You know…. your lifelong climbing buddy who the kids think is super cool. If you can add the bonus “super cool” crag dog your buddy has as well you have yourself a homerun. Anything you can do to turn the day into something that could be possibly seen as boring to a day with your nutty buddy and “Fur-ball” his saliva slopping stink hound. All kids love stinky dogs. Why? Who knows…?

Showing up at the cliffs without your gear will compel you to make sure all that can go well with the kids will go well.

Next on the list is picking the correct crag. There are great places to bring the kids, and terrible places as well.

““Thinking about the logistics of your adventure is 99% of the strategy””

Let’s take a few examples…..

Climbing at the Gunks. Don’t bring your kids to the main areas on the weekends. Talk about a total zoo! You have crowds, foreign dogs to the family, and a litany of stuff that can fall from the top of the cliffs.

No lie, a number of years back a friend was standing under “the Dangler” at the base of the Mac Wall. A guy way up high who had no business being on the route was 3/4 through the heel-hook traverse and dropped a gold camalot. Gravity took over and it came down and struck my buddy directly on the top of his head. Knocked him completely unconscious and gave him quite the scalp laceration. The guy climbing/hanging his way through the route didn’t even know he dropped it…. Pick your locations wisely. Yeah my buddy took his helmet off at the wrong time and it cost him a ride to the hospital and a few stiches but what gets lofted from the cliffs there on a regular basis may easily out weigh what a helmet can safeguard. No matter what you might think The Gunks [meaning the base of the cliff] is not a safe area for kids to hang out on the weekends. Even far out areas get rock fall from people looking for rappel stations at the top of the cliff when they are hopelessly lost.

Thinking about the logistics of your adventure is 99% of the strategy. Peters Kill is a much better option as the crag is all single pitch, more top-rope vs. lead climbing and being a state park the administration is much more serious about not having overcrowding. Just get there early on the weekends because once the parking lot fills up, that’s it.

Now for example a great place to bring the kids is the Red River Gorge. I’m mainly talking about the areas around the Pendergrass-Murray Preserve. Easy short hikes in, single pitch climbing that never tops out and level safe terrain so even the smallest child would be hard pressed to find something to fall off of. The only place that I can think of better than that area in Kentucky would be Stone Fort bouldering aka Little Rock City located in the Montlake Golf Club in Soddy-Daisey, Tennessee. Now it’s bouldering and not “climbing” but the place is a world class location that was literally built for kids. The approach is nil, the bouldering excellent, and the location is crawling (literally) with kids. *as an added note. No boulder pad?? No problem!!! There are so many cool folks that bring their pads you don’t have to have one in tow. Just walk in, get the kids acquainted with other kids and HAVE AT IT!!! In the few hours you may commit to this fine outdoor venue you will find it is a great place to boulder and the locals are super kind considerate people as well.

I have to admit, where my guide service is located we are quite fortunate to have a very child friendly crag as well. La Concepción is a 30 meter tall rhyolite cliff with a river flowing next to it. Easy five minute approach to the best crack climbing in all of Mexico.

We have 75 degree weather all year, a beautiful river valley that parallels the cliff and miles of rocks to jump across and look under. Exploring at its finest.

““Remember! A day at the cliffs with the kids is a win whether they touch rock or not.””

The next consideration when taking the little people out to the crag is are they interested in climbing? As a guide I meet lots of parents in the morning before guiding that tell me their kids are climbing prodigies and set a fairly inconsistent tone for the day.

For the first few visits to the cliffs let the kids do whatever they want. You may get the harness buckled in, shoes on, tied in and find out yeah… playing in the dirt is much more appealing. Remember! A day at the cliffs with the kids is a win whether they touch rock or not. Time is on your side. The mental growth of all the mechanics of climbing sets in differently for all kids. I’ve taken out families year after year and watched the growth of the entire family as a unit. My philosophy is don’t have any expectations and you won’t be disappointed.

I’ve had little kids grow up and tell me they remember the first day we met. I say really??!! They talk about my willingness to let them pretty much do whatever they want (within reason as kid’s days are for sure my hardest days). I’m sure it seemed that way coming from a family structure to a guide who is trying to juggle all the pieces of differing ages at the base of a cliff. If someone wants to climb up four feet and bounce around on the rope… have at it!! I figure they are learning to trust the system and when to decide to climb is ultimately up to them.

““Looking for fun moderates is like finding gold in a pile of hay””

This leads me to another super important topic of discussion. Picking routes the kids will enjoy. Do not plan your day around your own project and put the kids on some dirty trough that you wouldn’t climb yourself just to get the day in. Don’t be that parent. I myself have been on dirty, chossy toughs that need not be explored. Why put your kids through it just for the convenience of your send….

Looking for fun moderates is like finding gold in a pile of hay. No one knows what a child may find to be fun. A barely walkable slab or a blocky section of cliff. Anything may be intriguing depending on the day. What is really important is that the kids enjoy themselves. This will pay huge dividends as they get older. Trust me.

Climbing is all about the experience. It is the same for knee high’s as it is for 70 something’s. If you start your day with a beautiful hike and find a gorgeous spot to set up camp how could anything spoil the scene? It’s all about being outside and smelling the fresh air and letting your brain relax. Working the moderates is a stress free way of getting the kids on the end of the rope and a great way to create a family bond that will last much longer than the sun that cruises through the sky. Plant the seeds now. Talk about all the important aspects of keeping one another safe while enjoying the freedom only found at the base of a cliff. I’ve taught kids how to tie-in when everyone in attendance though them too young to grasp the concept. I’ve had kids who were terrified one foot off the ground in the morning to rolling though clean laps on a TR by afternoon. It is all about the approach to the day. No pressure is always my motto.

If you ever find yourself in México with the family and are considering a day at the cliffs look me up. Myself or one of our guides would be happy to take everyone out and show you how we create ‘experiences that last a lifetime’. Life is all about the journey not the destination. Take the time and enjoy the day.

Cheers.

Why Mexico?

Here is a glimpse into the question of why for anyone in the process of booking a climbing trip (of a lifetime) with SouthernXposure. 

I was sitting with a friend a good number of years ago and he asked me, "Why México?" he remarked, "You could guide anywhere on the Northern Continent and you decided on México as a home. Why?"

I look back on that day and my answer is as relevant today as it was back then (which now seems a lifetime ago).  To answer this question the most logical place to start is the climbing.

My life as a climber, climbing guide, and route developer has set me on this path of constant exploration. The discovery of new areas to map out, new rock to climb, new techniques to build upon, and new routes to develop is what drew me to this region of Central México.  There is an abundance of differing types of volcanic rock within a small geographic area.  This attribute for visiting climber translates into a mind altering bang for the buck (peso) in a short amount of time.

Imagine incredible climbing on three different variations of pristine volcanic rock, in three completely different eco-systems, in a warm southern climate at an incredibly affordable price. 
The three areas (lovingly referred to as “The Triple Crown”) that we are professionally guiding, and you will have the opportunity to visit (dependent on total days guided) are magnificent, and completely different from one another. 

Peña de Bernal at 8,235 feet above sea level is like nothing else I have ever experienced. An enormous monolith where the only way to the top is by technical rock climbing. With the starting altitude in Bernal, and the elevation gained by climbing to the summit, the total elevation is just shy of 10,000 feet above sea level. The view from the summit is extraordinary. On a clear day it is possible to see the snowcapped volcanoes of Iztaccihuatl, or Orizaba. I am asked why Peña de Bernal? Incredible climbing on a granite (porphyritic) monolith, exploring the [*magic] town of Bernal, and lastly getting to know the wonderful people who live and work in this beautiful town. 

The second stop while climbing the Triple Crown is La Concepción which lies outside the town of Aculco de Espinosa. This area is also widely known as the “Indian Creek” of  México, and in all reality, is the best crack climbing I have found on the Northern Continent. The rhyolite is extremely forgiving on the hands and because of the nature of the rock almost all of the footwork is outside the crack. These variables allow climbers to build their crack climbing technique without the usual pitfalls of “foot-in” crack-climbing. 
Why La Concepción? World class crack climbing in a beautiful river valley while living and exploring in the [*magic] town of Aculco. 

The third and final stop while visiting The Triple Crown is Las Peñas de Dexcani Alto outside of Jilotepec de Molina. This climbing area is like nothing else on the Northern Continent. Imagine an overhanging climbing gym in an oak forest at 9,500 feet in elevation. 
Why Las Peñas? There is nothing else like this area that I have ever seen. In my opinion Las Peñas is the best single pitch sport climbing in México. 
Whether climbing the granite of Bernal, the rhyolite of Aculco, or the volcanic tuff of Las Peñas de Dexcani, one underlying theme is constant; a guided exploration of beautiful majestic climbing areas. 

The big picture~
Climbers need to see what I have seen, and climb what I have climbed. To visit these towns is like stepping back in time to an era where Main Street is still resides on Main Street. Come visit the beautiful artesian markets, and the quaint towns that haven’t changed but a blink of an eye in a hundred years. Lose yourself wondering the streets in a place that time has all but forgotten.  
As a guide I am entrusted to get you to the cliffs, provide a fantastic experience vertically through my skill and knowledge, and safely return you back to civilization after our day is finished. You are trusting my judgment, and experience.

Trust me as you read this. This climbing trip could change your outlook on life. 
Variety is the spice of life.  Come and climb with us in a country renowned for its spiciness! 

-Simeon